THE ABBOT PFANNER TRAPPIST TRAIL
“There is a lovely road that runs from Ixopo into the hills. These hills are grass-covered and rolling, and they are lovely beyond any singing of it. The road climbs seven miles into them, to Carisbrooke; and from there, if there is no mist, you look down on one of the fairest valleys of Africa.”
The pilgrimage starts at Mariannhill Monastery established by Francis Pfanner in 1882. The bus can take you to Reichenau Mission so that you can walk to Ashtonvale Guest Farm. This was the first satellite mission built by the Trappists in 1886, about 18 km from Underberg in the Southern Drakensberg. The trail meanders through rural villages and country towns, visiting 8 of the historical Trappist missions, each with a beautiful church designed by Brother Nivard Streicher, a humble German monk, over a century ago. The missions include Kevelaer, Centocow, Lourdes, Emaus, Maria Hilf, St Isidor and Mariathal before arriving at the ‘Mother Mission’ at Mariannhill near Pinetown.
As you follow in the footsteps of the Trappist monks and Sisters of the Precious Blood, who served at the missions, you will learn about the history of the Trappists and their missions; fascinating folk-lore and legends, the landscape, and the fauna and flora of this wonderful trail. This is a stunning walking trail through gorgeous landscapes in what Alan Paton described in Cry the Beloved Country as “the fairest valley in Africa.” Some of the landscape is ancient and sacred and you might see the shy Gwala Gwala bird with its brilliant colours, which in Swaziland only members of the Royal are allowed to wear. Trail guides are familiar with the plants, folklore and much of the history of the trail and knows a lot about the 8 historic Mission churches you will visit.
FITNESS REQUIREMENT: This is a challenging trail, not so much because of the daily distances, but because of the terrain which passes through remote, rural areas with no access to taxis or other transport, and very few villages. Some of the small, rural villages have a tuck shop - called a Spaza - which sell cold drinks and sweets but are little more than a lean-to shack. Hikers need to be able to carry their water and snacks each day.
THE TERRAIN:
The best way to describe the trail is ‘undulating’. Ashtonvale Farm is a few km from Bulwer. The altitude here is 1537m, Donnybrook 1371m, Creighton 1020 m, Umzimkulu 803m and Ixopo ± 1000m. You will walk in a few high places, into deep riverine valleys and up again through forests and farmlands. There is also some walking on gravel roads.
“There is a lovely road that runs from Ixopo into the hills. These hills are grass-covered and rolling, and they are lovely beyond any singing of it. The road climbs seven miles into them, to Carisbrooke; and from there, if there is no mist, you look down on one of the fairest valleys of Africa.”
The pilgrimage starts at Mariannhill Monastery established by Francis Pfanner in 1882. The bus can take you to Reichenau Mission so that you can walk to Ashtonvale Guest Farm. This was the first satellite mission built by the Trappists in 1886, about 18 km from Underberg in the Southern Drakensberg. The trail meanders through rural villages and country towns, visiting 8 of the historical Trappist missions, each with a beautiful church designed by Brother Nivard Streicher, a humble German monk, over a century ago. The missions include Kevelaer, Centocow, Lourdes, Emaus, Maria Hilf, St Isidor and Mariathal before arriving at the ‘Mother Mission’ at Mariannhill near Pinetown.
As you follow in the footsteps of the Trappist monks and Sisters of the Precious Blood, who served at the missions, you will learn about the history of the Trappists and their missions; fascinating folk-lore and legends, the landscape, and the fauna and flora of this wonderful trail. This is a stunning walking trail through gorgeous landscapes in what Alan Paton described in Cry the Beloved Country as “the fairest valley in Africa.” Some of the landscape is ancient and sacred and you might see the shy Gwala Gwala bird with its brilliant colours, which in Swaziland only members of the Royal are allowed to wear. Trail guides are familiar with the plants, folklore and much of the history of the trail and knows a lot about the 8 historic Mission churches you will visit.
FITNESS REQUIREMENT: This is a challenging trail, not so much because of the daily distances, but because of the terrain which passes through remote, rural areas with no access to taxis or other transport, and very few villages. Some of the small, rural villages have a tuck shop - called a Spaza - which sell cold drinks and sweets but are little more than a lean-to shack. Hikers need to be able to carry their water and snacks each day.
THE TERRAIN:
The best way to describe the trail is ‘undulating’. Ashtonvale Farm is a few km from Bulwer. The altitude here is 1537m, Donnybrook 1371m, Creighton 1020 m, Umzimkulu 803m and Ixopo ± 1000m. You will walk in a few high places, into deep riverine valleys and up again through forests and farmlands. There is also some walking on gravel roads.
Clubs, churches, schools and other organisations are welcome to organise their own group walks and set their own prices.
Things to remember:
Updates on things to do on https://www.facebook.com/underbergcalling/
Things to remember:
- It is not yet advisable to walk this trail on your own. For safety, walking with a group and hiring the services of a local, isiZulu speaking trail guide is a essential. Contact us for a list of trail-guides.
- Although the trail is partially marked, we do not yet have a printed guide book so the ability to follow 'kml Google Earth tracks' is a requirement.
- There is limited accommodation between missions so it is important not to overlap with another group.
- Links to places to stay can be found on the APT Trail Accommodation page.
- The missions were established one day’s ride apart so some are up to 40 km apart. In order to plan 20 km stages you will need a back-up vehicle to pick up the group and transport them to their accommodation, and return them the next day. Please read the APT Trail Accommodation and Transport page for information on providing bus transport for your group.
- The APTTA can provide pilgrim records which have been stamped at each mission, and certificates of completion which you arrange to hand out.
- In order to support the maintenance of the mission churches so that the trails can survive into the future, you should include a donation of R50 pp in your trail package for each of the 7 missions mission (eg R50 X 7 = R350 pp). This should be costed into to the overall cost of the walk per person and can be deposited in the APTTA account for distribution to the missions. Account details on request
- The Missions have working churches and it is important to contact the priests to let them know when you will arrive so that the church can be opened for your group. Contact details on the LINKS page.
Updates on things to do on https://www.facebook.com/underbergcalling/
DETAILS OF THE WALKS
GETTING TO THE START
2: Getting to the start independently - the NUD Express leaves Durban King Shaka airport at 2pm for Underberg (R600 pp or R1500 private shuttle) www.underbergexpress.co.za/ or people can drive to the place where you start and leave a vehicle there.
Accommodation at Mariannhill:
In the retreat (031 7004288) Brother Crispin (R350 DBB)
Tre Fontane http://trefontane.co.za/ Contact them for prices
From other Provinces:
Reichenau is 18 km from Underberg and 25 km from Bulwer.
- Due to limited accommodation capacity, groups should be restricted to 12 people.
- They must be accompanied by a local Zulu speaking trail guide for security and local knowledge of fauna, flora and folk lore.
- Participants can be given an Abbot Pfanner Trappist Trail ‘ pilgrim record’ that have been stamped at the missions, a booklet containing descriptions of daily stages, and information leaflets on each of the 9 missions.
- You will be able to purchase a Trappist cross to hang on your day-pack, Abbot Pfanner pins, novenas and booklets which are available at Mariannhill and most Missions.
- You could stay in a Mission (or two) as well as small B&B establishments, lodges and country guest farms. Only a couple of single rooms are available.
- Meals - some places offer dinner, bed and breakfast, others will cater for you.
- Provisions to make a light lunch can be provided by the accommodation at an extra cost of R20 - R30 pp. There are only two supermarkets on this trail so it is advised to make your lunches where provisions are offered.
- Some of the missions are two days walk apart so the group must collected from a pre-arranged place and transferred back there the next day.
- Luggage can be transferred between overnight stops. Space should be limited to one small tog bag per person and a day pack
- When you return to Mariannhill you can give pilgrims the Abbot Pfanner Trappist Trail pilgrimage certificate (available from the APTTA)
GETTING TO THE START
- With the group:
2: Getting to the start independently - the NUD Express leaves Durban King Shaka airport at 2pm for Underberg (R600 pp or R1500 private shuttle) www.underbergexpress.co.za/ or people can drive to the place where you start and leave a vehicle there.
Accommodation at Mariannhill:
In the retreat (031 7004288) Brother Crispin (R350 DBB)
Tre Fontane http://trefontane.co.za/ Contact them for prices
From other Provinces:
Reichenau is 18 km from Underberg and 25 km from Bulwer.
APT TRAIL – MARKERS & SIGNS
1: The APT trail sign is a yellow Trappist Cross.
2: The yellow X means do not go this way.
3: The yellow arrow is a direction marker.
4: In some places where direction is continuous we just painted a yellow or white dot.
We were in the process of compiling a written guide-book which will include information on flora and fauna and would be grateful if you can contribute photographs of flowers, plants, birds and mammals spotted on the trail.
1: The APT trail sign is a yellow Trappist Cross.
2: The yellow X means do not go this way.
3: The yellow arrow is a direction marker.
4: In some places where direction is continuous we just painted a yellow or white dot.
We were in the process of compiling a written guide-book which will include information on flora and fauna and would be grateful if you can contribute photographs of flowers, plants, birds and mammals spotted on the trail.
Priests in charge of the Missions
Reichenau Mission: Kevelaer Mission: Fr. Lungelo Bethuel Mhlongo, 082 628 2753 and 039 831 [email protected] Centocow Mission: Lourdes Mission: Fr. Michal 082 427 4062 [email protected] Sr Wernika Lapeta 0637548488 Emaus Mission: Sister Sizakele 0637332689 email Sizakele.cps.gmail.com Maria Hilf (Mary Help) Mission: Fr. Msomi 0762158607 Mariathal Mission: Fr Mthuthuzeli email [email protected] & cell no. 0794357264. Mariannhill Monastery: St. Joseph's Cathedral Fr. Vitus Jili, 082 431 9064 and 031 700 2671 Rev Fr Bheki Shabalala -Provincial Superior. Office: 031-700 2666 mobile: 0793395169 email: [email protected] Rev Fr Lawrence Mota –Superior: Office: 031- 7004288 mobile: 079 2192636 email: [email protected] Museum at Centocow Mission Gerard Bhengu Museum Curator Tembeka Ngcamu 073 469 6407 |
TECHNOLOGY and Security
Networks are patchy in some areas and non existent in others - especially Lourdes and Emaus. Only a few places have WiFi so top-up your data before you leave. If you have a dual SIM cell phone, use one Vodacom and one MTN SIM cards. EMERGENCY CONTACTS Bulwer: Saps 039-8320007 Donnybrook: NETCARE 082911 police station 0398310000 Creighton: Police station 0398331005 Umzimkulu: Emergency Numbers 10111 : Police 039 259 4600/ 0800 : Fire Brigade 072 611 9395/ 082 904 7233 : Ambulance 039 834 8500 Ixopo: Saps 039-834 1013 All emergencies – 10111: Mobile emergency number 112 operates 24/7 MY SOS - is a free app. https://mysos.co.za The appropriate response teams are used to working in rural areas. |